Did you know that world’s third largest whirlpool lurks just off mainland Argyll? it lies between the islands of Jura and Scarba to be precise. As the crow flies, my house is probably around 12 miles from the Corryvreckan so I’ve always been aware of this monster sitting just off shore. I’ve seen the stretch of water many times from the shore, seen the mighty waves crashing through the channel using binoculars and even heard it’s roar while hiking in the coastal hills but up until last summer I had never visited the whirlpool itself. You see I have a fear of boats and deep water so the thought of sailing into one of the worlds most turbulent stretches of water didn’t bare thinking about. However last summer, during a very calm spell, I decided to take the plunge and book a trip to the Corryvreckan with Venture West. I also took my Dad along with me for moral support.
We boarded the boat at Crinan harbour, sailing out into the Sound of Jura. It was an exceptional day, by 9.30am the temperature was already into the low 20’s and there was not a breathe of wind. This calmed my nerves a wee bit as the sea was like a glass.
We quickly arrived at a small cluster of rocks collectively known as the Garbh Reisa. Straight away we could feel a lot more movement in the water and small whirlpools were now surrounding the boat. . This is because a tidal race called the Dorus Mòr (great door) runs past these islands. Even on such a calm day the power of the current here was evident. The islands are also home to a variety of seabirds and a few curious seals.
Next we headed towards Jura, visiting a beautiful little inlet which is home to dozens of seals. Seals are a common sight around the west coast but usually they are seen looking a bit cumbersome on land where as here we watched them swimming gracefully through the shallow waters.
Next it was time for the main event, sailing through the Corryvreckan. At this point I was pretty nervous but realistically I knew nothing was going to happen as it was a calm day and Sandy, owner of Venture West, is a very experienced skipper. At the entrance to the channel it was pretty calm with incredible views. A multitude of islands could be seen including Mull. However the further we travelled into the channel the sea began to boil up, I say boil as with all the little whirlpools it looked like water boiling in a cauldron.
The turbulent waters of the Corryvreckan are down to the geographical positioning of the islands in relation to the mainland. The whirlpool is particularly active during the times when the tide is in flood. A large amount of water if sucked up through the relatively narrow Sound of Jura which is then compressed even further as it rushes through this small gap between Scarba and Jura. Add to this a seabed which is irregular with reefs, humps, bumps, a deep hole which then rises to a giant pinnacle and you have the perfect storm. During spring tides the water can rush through here at up to 10 knots and during strong westerly winds waves can top 15 feet high. Which would be amazing to see.. from land.
We spent quite a long time here, Sandy would switch the engine off temporarily and the boat would get dragged around by the tide. As we exited the Sound of Corryvreckan at the western side my dad spotted a pod of porpoises which was very exciting. Mia, who works on the boat, explained that this area is a haven for sea mammal like porpoises as the turbulent waters create rich feeding grounds. Dolphins are regularly spotted on these trips and some lucky beggars even catch the sight of whales.
We then sailed out the Sound of Corryvreckan, travelling around the west side of Scarba which provided stunning views to the Isle of Mull. If i’m honest the calm waters here were a welcome relief after spending time bobbing about in the whirlpool.
On our return to Crinan we passed through a small channel at the north end of Scarba called The Grey Dogs. This can apparently be almost as wild as the Corryvreckan if the conditions are right. On this day it was pretty calm with just a slight disturbance in the water. Unfortunately I don’t have any usable pictures of this part of the trip, somehow I managed to capture every shot out of focus.
As we cruised past the east side of Scarba we had an incredible wildlife sighting. At the top of a tall tree a young eagle was stretching it’s wings in preparation for flight. The size of these birds is incredible, even as a nestling. The experience soon got even better as one of the parents flew to the nest with lunch before quickly taking off again to perch on one of the sea cliffs.
After all that excitement it was time to head home. I’m so glad I picked up the courage to take this trip as it was such an incredible experience and encapsulates what Argyll has to offer. If you are spending any time in Argyll and looking for something to do I would absolutely recommend taking a trip out with Venture West especially since this is the year of West Coast Waters. You might not get weather like we had but if your sea legs are a bit better than mine a trip on a wilder day might be an even more exciting experience.
I would just like to add that this trip was not sponsored in any way, I paid for it out of my own pocket. :)
